Cotopaxi. Weather Report and  Conditions on the Normal Route. Date: Marzo 13 2009   Photos taken on December 3, 2003   The weather throughout the ascent was clear and without wind.  We started off from Jose Ribas Refuge (4,800 meters), at 01:30 hours.  The top part of the slope that leads directly to the start of the glacier, is covered in snow, but if we keep to the path there will be no need to use crampons.  Once rigged, and with climbing irons ready, the climb on the first short sloping hill of the glacier (35 – 40 degrees/30 meters), can begin before reaching a less sloping area.  Lightly ascending to the right, we come to a second steep trek (40 –50 degrees/15 meters), that leads to a crevassed area.  One must be careful when crossing the first crevasse, making a slight left traverse, and especially the second, by using a thin and fragile bridge of ice.  Journey continues through soft slopes until reaching a crevasse located at approximately 5,350 meters.  To overcome this crevasse one must take a left traverse through a wide and safe bridge (20 meters long), that runs parallel to the two crevasses (caution!!!).  The slope becomes slightly steep again (35 degrees), after crossing another crevice using a short and safe bridge, one takes a right traverse in order to avoid another crevasse and be able to climb to the zigzags that lead to a flat site located at approximately 5,550 meters where it is possible to rest and watch the dawn break (0530-0600 hours).  One continues to the right for a few meters bordering a crevice and ascends to the border of another (5,600 meters) where it is necessary to walk up 6 meters using another bridge and ascend again to overcome the cliff (exposed to the left side – protection is preferable when there is wind or if one is with inexperienced climbers).  The slope becomes easy up to the beginning of the last 200 m/ 650 ft  (snow slope of 40 – 45 degrees to the left of the wall of rock Yanasacha).  Up to this point the snow conditions were almost perfect on the path and its surroundings.  The snow was less compacted on the majority of these last 200 meters, making the climb harder and more exhausting due to the constant faux steps (two up and one down, given the consistency of the snow).     General Information   ACCLIMATIZATION   When people live at sea level or at low elevations, and ascend above 2500m / 8000ft, they could be affected by a specific illness called ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS (AMS), caused by the reduced amount of oxygen in the atmosphere. Because of failure to acclimatize to lower oxygen levels, mild AMS could develop into two different forms of severe AMS, which can occur separately or together: HIGH ALTITUDE CEREBRAL EDEMA (HACE), and HIGH ALTITUDE PULMONARY EDEMA (HAPE).  Both can be fatal if not recognized and treated on time. The golden rule for treating them is to descend the affected person immediately to a lower altitude. Nobody knows for sure what causes AMS, but it is preventable if some basic rules are followed during the acclimatization process.  Ideally the acclimatization process should be easy and progress gradual. Those that rush in the acclimatization process are more vulnerable to AMS. Each person reacts differently to the altitude and has his/her own acclimatization rhythm. In Ecuador  the known rule of ascending 300m /1000ft. , per day above the 3000m/10000ft. with one day rest every 3 to 4 days , or every 900m/3000ft, is difficult to follow ; instead we exert the rule of “climb high and sleep low “ . Flying into the altitude of Quito (2800m/9000ft.) from sea level is obviously a major body shock. The most common symptoms experienced (mild AMS) during the first two days of arrival to this altitude are: headache (relieved by mild analgesics) ,  breathlessness , respiration and pulse rate increases , lack of appetite, nausea, disturbed sleep, tiredness, fatigue, lethargy. The digestive system is less efficient at high altitudes, making it more difficult to digest protein and fat. A diet rich in carbohydrates is highly recommended. At sea level one’s resting pulse is 65 with a maximum heart rate of 170. At 2500m/8000ft., only 75 % of the molecules of oxygen exist in relation to sea level (the atmospheric pressure is 75% of the pressure at sea level). The body begins to perform important adaptation mechanisms, to carry the normal amount of oxygen needed to the different cells and tissues. The most important one is the increase in respiration rate, so drugs that make one breathe less, such as antihistamines, strong analgesics/pain killers, sedatives or sleeping pills, are not advisable at altitude. Due to the increase in the respiration rate, we also lose water as we breathe, so we should drink more water than at sea level. Another mechanism of our body to adapt is to increase the number of red blood cells; kidneys will produce the hormone that stimulates the production of more red blood cells because it improves the transport of oxygen. At 5500m/18000ft we only have 50 % of the molecules of oxygen in the atmosphere of those available at sea level. The cardio rhythm examples give us an average resting pulse of 85 and a maximum average rate of 140 during exercise. The tops of mountains such as Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, Cayambe and Antizana are located above this altitude. The lungs expel more carbon dioxide, altering the ph balance in the blood; at the same time the kidneys unload more water to correct the acidity in the blood. This is another reason why it is recommended to drink more water in order to prevent dehydration. It is advisable to drink at least five liters of water per day above 5000m/16400ft. The consumption of commercial preparations such as Gatorade, Isostar or similar products, is highly recommended, since the body, apart from losing water, is also losing salts, minerals, and electrolytes. Several specialists in high altitude sickness, recommend the use of Acetazolamide (commercially known as Diamox), taken as prophylactic. This drug is used in the treatment of “ Glaucoma “ and has proved to be useful in the prevention of AMS. Diamox accelerates acclimatization by acidifying the blood, increasing the respiration rate, and improving the circulation of oxygen.  Opinions vary on the amount and when to start taking Diamox, but it is generally recommended to start one day before flying, or the day arrival to Quito. The consumption of Diamox is a personal decision; climbing to higher altitudes is possible with out taking it, but its use should be considered if the exposure to high elevations is done within a short period of time (Quito for instance) from sea level, or the time to acclimatize is short. Diamox also helps to sleep better at altitude. Like all drugs, Diamox can cause undesired side effects. The main one is that the drug acts as a diuretic, which is a reason why plenty of liquids should be taken (not alcohol), to prevent dehydration. Other side effects include: tingling around the face, hands and feet, drinking carbonated beverages could experience a metallic flavour.  Those allergic to sulpha drugs should not take Diamox. If taking it for the first time, one should give it a trial period before travelling, to make sure that the side effects are not intolerable. Consult your doctor before taking Diamox (Acetazolamide).         Otros reportes Photo Gallery   @@START_COMMENT Standard footer @@END_COMMENT