Logbook of a trip to Chimborazo Date: 9-10 December 2003   Photos taken on December 10, 2003 Silence is only broken by the sound of the crampons biting on the hard snow upon the never-ending final slope that leads to the Veintimilla summit on Chimborazo volcano.  I turn off my front flashlight as the dawn breaks, filling the horizon with color.  I hear my friend and rigging companion, Leo’s voice saying “Are we close?..”  “Just a few minutes more”, I reply.  After a slow beginning typical of a midnight climb, our rhythm has greatly improved, and I think to myself, “Yes, just a few minutes more... but just to the Veintimilla summit!”  Our objective is to reach the highest summit or Whymper, yet according to our friends, the Refuge caretakers, no-one has reached that point in weeks or even months due to the harsh penitent snow and deep crevasses of the traverse between the two giant uppermost domes.   I wonder if the ash coming from the neighboring Tungurahua volcano has been the main cause for the penitent snow and broken appearance of the glacier.  A few steps more, and I bump into Julito and Eric at the Veintimilla summit.  They started off an hour later, but have maintained a constant rhythm throughout the climb.  It is six in the morning now, and we’re in plenty of time to try to ascend the Whymper, so we observe the long trek ahead and weigh our possibilities.  “Julito.... shall we?” -  “We shall!” he responds with his characteristic self confidence and assurance.  They go ahead, but we need another sip of tea and something to eat before we follow.  I can see Julito making way through the penitent snow very quickly, stopping only for a brief instant once in a while before continuing with Eric, at a speed which only increases my own confidence.  I am pleased to see them progress so efficiently, as I set about the task of sticking wands into the snow for our way back.  Leo is doing very well, he is acclimatized and has in the last three weeks climbed up some volcanoes in Mexico.  In fact, a few days ago he climbed the two Illinizas with Gaspar, but refrained from reaching the summit of the Antisana because a large crevasse wouldn’t let them pass.    We are very close; a very short traverse left and two crevasse crossings over some very precarious bridges, leave us at the furthest point from the center of the earth where we find Julito and Eric.  Julito’s good eye has expertly guided us through this complicated maze and we have arrived in just about one hour.    Lots of handshakes here and there, congratulations, a few photographs and the descent begins.  The scenery is spectacular as we can feast our eyes on a sea of clouds interrupted only by the summits of volcanoes such as the famous Cotopaxi, Antisana, Illinizas, Sangay, and the smoking Tungurahua.  After a few minutes and sips of fluid, it’s our turn.  Once more the two “racers” are far away, negotiating the field of snow over the hill up to Veintimilla summit.  On their right they find an impressive crevasse and the snow looks gray because of the ash.  A few years ago this was an unthinkable sight.   It is a little after eight and we have reached, for the second time in the same day, the Veintimilla dome.  We will need to hurry as we must descend before the heat of the morning gives way to a shower of stones in the first quarter of the Castle Route.    We reach the Refuge without any mishaps.   We bid Julito and Eric farewell, and take a short nap before starting the return journey to Quito and beers! Report: José Luis Peralvo.   General Information ACCLIMATIZATION   When people live at sea level or at low elevations, and ascend above 2500m / 8000ft, they could be affected by a specific illness called ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS (AMS), caused by the reduced amount of oxygen in the atmosphere. Because of failure to acclimatize to lower oxygen levels, mild AMS could develop into two different forms of severe AMS, which can occur separately or together: HIGH ALTITUDE CEREBRAL EDEMA (HACE), and HIGH ALTITUDE PULMONARY EDEMA (HAPE).  Both can be fatal if not recognized and treated on time. The golden rule for treating them is to descend the affected person immediately to a lower altitude. Nobody knows for sure what causes AMS, but it is preventable if some basic rules are followed during the acclimatization process.  Ideally the acclimatization process should be easy and progress gradual. Those that rush in the acclimatization process are more vulnerable to AMS. Each person reacts differently to the altitude and has his/her own acclimatization rhythm. In Ecuador  the known rule of ascending 300m /1000ft. , per day above the 3000m/10000ft. with one day rest every 3 to 4 days , or every 900m/3000ft, is difficult to follow ; instead we exert the rule of “climb high and sleep low “ . Flying into the altitude of Quito (2800m/9000ft.) from sea level is obviously a major body shock. The most common symptoms experienced (mild AMS) during the first two days of arrival to this altitude are: headache (relieved by mild analgesics) ,  breathlessness , respiration and pulse rate increases , lack of appetite, nausea, disturbed sleep, tiredness, fatigue, lethargy. The digestive system is less efficient at high altitudes, making it more difficult to digest protein and fat. A diet rich in carbohydrates is highly recommended. At sea level one’s resting pulse is 65 with a maximum heart rate of 170. At 2500m/8000ft., only 75 % of the molecules of oxygen exist in relation to sea level (the atmospheric pressure is 75% of the pressure at sea level). The body begins to perform important adaptation mechanisms, to carry the normal amount of oxygen needed to the different cells and tissues. The most important one is the increase in respiration rate, so drugs that make one breathe less, such as antihistamines, strong analgesics/pain killers, sedatives or sleeping pills, are not advisable at altitude. Due to the increase in the respiration rate, we also lose water as we breathe, so we should drink more water than at sea level. Another mechanism of our body to adapt is to increase the number of red blood cells; kidneys will produce the hormone that stimulates the production of more red blood cells because it improves the transport of oxygen. At 5500m/18000ft we only have 50 % of the molecules of oxygen in the atmosphere of those available at sea level. The cardio rhythm examples give us an average resting pulse of 85 and a maximum average rate of 140 during exercise. The tops of mountains such as Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, Cayambe and Antizana are located above this altitude. The lungs expel more carbon dioxide, altering the ph balance in the blood; at the same time the kidneys unload more water to correct the acidity in the blood. This is another reason why it is recommended to drink more water in order to prevent dehydration. It is advisable to drink at least five liters of water per day above 5000m/16400ft. The consumption of commercial preparations such as Gatorade, Isostar or similar products, is highly recommended, since the body, apart from losing water, is also losing salts, minerals, and electrolytes. Several specialists in high altitude sickness, recommend the use of Acetazolamide (commercially known as Diamox), taken as prophylactic. This drug is used in the treatment of “ Glaucoma “ and has proved to be useful in the prevention of AMS. Diamox accelerates acclimatization by acidifying the blood, increasing the respiration rate, and improving the circulation of oxygen.  Opinions vary on the amount and when to start taking Diamox, but it is generally recommended to start one day before flying, or the day arrival to Quito. The consumption of Diamox is a personal decision; climbing to higher altitudes is possible with out taking it, but its use should be considered if the exposure to high elevations is done within a short period of time (Quito for instance) from sea level, or the time to acclimatize is short. Diamox also helps to sleep better at altitude. Like all drugs, Diamox can cause undesired side effects. The main one is that the drug acts as a diuretic, which is a reason why plenty of liquids should be taken (not alcohol), to prevent dehydration. Other side effects include: tingling around the face, hands and feet, drinking carbonated beverages could experience a metallic flavour.  Those allergic to sulpha drugs should not take Diamox. If taking it for the first time, one should give it a trial period before travelling, to make sure that the side effects are not intolerable. Consult your doctor before taking Diamox (Acetazolamide).         Otros Reportes Photo Gallery